Wednesday, 5 February 2014

Broadway biriani, balti bec

Tooting curry

A drive up to Tooting with MM, and a curry with MM, Kiz and H. There's no choice, as I see it, other than to eat curry when there's so much choice. We went to the one at the end of the road, keeping things simple. A long wait, which I always take as a good sign, and then the sizzling pots arrived, with a basket of bread.

I had a potato curry, chickpea curry, and a chilli naan, and scoffed every last scrap, because it was all absolutely spot-on. Any restaurant can be hit and miss, any given night, but there wasn't much left on the table when we'd finished.

The place feels open. It's on the corner, the external walls are shopfront glazing. There are simple wooden tables seating two or four people. The place is busy. Commuters call in on their way home for takeaways. There's a counter with keep-warm trays, behind which staff bustle, spooning curry and rice into containers, cooking the skewered meats, making up the kebab rolls, slapping dough onto the sides of the tandoor. Some punters brought their own beer and wine, but it does not have a licence. The waiter brought menus: laminated A4 sheets, plates, cutlery, and took our drinks order, then left us alone until the food arrived. The telly in the corner is tuned to cricket, if there is any, football if there isn't, and what looked like some random birdwatching channel if there's neither.

There's an upstairs overspill seating area, but on Wednesday night it was busy, but not that busy.

I managed to save enough bread to mop the plate, and both black metal pots, scooping up every last drop of those sauces. The Bombay aloo was hot enough, the potatoes just right, intact but soft enough to have absorbed the spicy flavours. The chickpeas were resistant to the bite, in a rich, dark brown sauce flecked with fresh coriander, and heavy on the garlic. The last online cook curry at home like the restaurants serve up advice said don't skimp: don't skimp on the oil, it doesn't need to be swimming, but the oil dissolves and carries the spice flavours, and delivers it to the dish; don't skim on the garlic, double what you think is reasonable, and that's probably not actually enough; don't skimp on the quality of the ingredients – this isn't an exercise in masking mouldy spuds and past-it meat.

It must be easier to have happy diners when the general whiff of the whole area is making then hungry, making them almost drool. That's the effects the smells pouring out of the snack bars, restaurants and takeaways has on me. Add the colours of the stacked exotics at the shops and markets, and it's impossible not to come away not just well-fed, but with bags of ingredients to take home and get cooking with.


All that isn't to say that it has to be curry or nothing. Just that increasingly, it has become the failsafe option when low-cost food's on the menu. I've become disillusioned with a fish and chip industry that, apparently, is booming, but that seems dominated by style over substance. Old enough to have eaten from some soggy, greasy paper wrapped in layers of yesterdays news, the black ink staining my fingers, I long for some retro-fashion, and don't really like the fancy boxes, wooden forks, and sanitised experience that goes with some pretty mediocre food. It's the same with greasy spoons. Breakfasts vary between overpriced and decent and overpriced rubbish, and the diversification hasn't been a good thing. You don't go to a café for scrambled eggs, or porridge, or poached eggs on toast. You want Holland and Barrett, next door, mate. Cafés are not for innovation. I don't want some nouvelle cuisine mini-breakfast, thanks. I'd rather not bother. There were two cafés that took a slightly different approach, in the 1970's or early 80's. Peter Burden would've dragged me along to both, in between whatever we were up to earning a bit extra. Heading roughly north along Blackshaw Road, past the turning for the hospital, there was a place on the right that invented low-cost carvery lunches. They specialised in sliced roast beef and pork, with chips and peas. On the Purley Way there was a large, industrial catering enterprise. Metal trays of traditional, school-diner type fare, lined up. Up grabbed a tray and told them what to pile onto your plate. Steak and kidney pudding, plenty of kidney (cheaper) in a rich gravy and soft pastry, with boiled spuds, cabbage and carrots, and some more gravy poured over the lot. Checkout, sit, eat, go. A precursor to the top floors at branches of BHS. He would've dragged me, because even then I would've wanted to go to the curry takeaways in Tooting or the one at Clapham South, for some tinfoil trays of delicious spiciness.

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